Jane's signature look is one that embodies both presentability and the right amount of nonchalance. He almost always wears a 2-button three-piece suit and a dress shirt sans tie, and there are even times where he sleeps in them. Though some purists frown upon three-piece suits without ties, Jane makes this ensemble uniquely his. He is also handsome and quite charming.
Throughout his journey to capture Red John, the shirts Jane wears are either linen or cotton, in plain whites or sky blues. Patterned shirts during this period do occasionally appear in the form of stripes or checks. After exacting his revenge, Jane almost exclusively wears linen shirts with a light and subtle floral pattern, possibly influenced by his days in extradition. All of Jane's current shirts have button cuffs and soft collars, a stark contrast from his psychic days when the shirts had French cuffs and much stiffer collars.
His suits are mostly linen or wool (in patterns ranging from plain, pinstripes, chalkstripes, and Prince-of-Wales glen plaid), with corduroy making at least one appearance. Most of his suits are double-vented, with a small number being center-vented. Jane has a preference for notch lapels, but during flashbacks of his psychic days, he seems to wear exclusively peak lapels. It is possible that peak lapels remind him of the person he was before his family's death, and he avoids them now (an example can be seen in the light grey suit he wore during his TV appearance commenting on Red John, the same day his family was killed—it was a peak lapel—the suit makes no appearance other than during that time). The pockets on his jacket and vest are often slanted, with his jacket frequently having a ticket pocket (a smaller pocket on top of the outer right jacket pocket).
In the first three seasons, Jane frequently wears an odd vest with his suit, and the cut of his clothes appears to be rather relaxed. During this period, the vests he wears have a sham button as the last button (reflecting the sartorial rule of leaving one's bottom button unbuttoned), but in his case, the vest is often too short, exposing his shirt in a triangle just above the pants zipper, a major faux pas. Early in season 4, he continues this, but a few episodes later, the suits and shirts are much more slim cut, more form-fitting on his silhouette. The vest also no longer has the sham button, and he buttons all six buttons to great effect—the dreaded triangle is no longer present, making the overall look more streamlined. During his early days of working for the FBI, he forgoes the vest, but a while after starting his relationship with Lisbon, he resumes his habit of wearing the full ensemble.
His pants are flat-front, slim, tapered, and with a full break. Occasionally Jane wears a belt, which is traditionally considered a faux pas when one is wearing a vest. However, he often goes beltless. Some of his pants have cuffs, and in "Days of Wine and Roses" (the scene where he sneaks into a room and steals a gold Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day Date), we see clearly the cuffs on his pants as well as the full break.
Jane has appeared wearing a tuxedo, albeit only once. Oddly enough, he breaks a cardinal rule of black tie—a single-breasted dinner jacket must be either peak lapel or shawl lapel with a one-button closure—Jane's tux was a notch lapel, two-button. A man of Jane's knowledge would surely understand this simple rule, and this deliberate breaking of the rules serves as further confirmation of his current distaste for peak lapels.
His shoes are brown derbies. Throughout the course of the series, he only had them resoled once.
Jane marked an iconic moment by wearing a watch for the first time: a Longines Master Collection Reference Number L2.673.8.78.3. His choice of this particular model, which bears a brown leather strap and rose gold bezel, is an acknowledgment of Jane's attention to detail as he carefully matches his leathers and metals. He does not wear it during his exile, but after returning to the US and starting his stint with the FBI, he resumes wearing the watch.
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